Replacing Almera Starter Motor

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   At first I thought it was the starter motor solenoid which had gone. There was voltage on the low current feed to the solenoid but the solenoid wasn't "clicking". However, I discovered that the "common" for the solenoid and motor goes through the brushes/commutator, so if the motor brushes are not making contact with the commutator, this will also lead to the solenoid not operating. On removing and bench testing the solenoid, this was found to be working. The starter motor was removed, and on removing the end-plate the brushes were found to be worn down. You can't just buy brushes so I ended up replacing the SM with an exchange unit. So now a few tips on how to remove the SM.

The SM is mounted behind the engine block on the clutch/gearbox/flywheel side. To get access you have to remove the plastic air ducting - a big jubilee clip to undo, a plug to take out, and an air breather to slide off - and take off a cast-metal support which is bolted on between the engine side of the air manifold and the manifold itself - 4 x 12mm bolts. Once this bracket is out you can see the SM clearly. There is a steel support which comes across, which has to be undone at the top (13mm bolt I believe) and moved over: to be able to move that you also need to have slackened off the bolt at the other, bottom end of this bracket: I had to do this from underneath, so had to raise the car to do that. At this point make sure that you have the negative battery terminal disconnected (and make sure you know your radio code, or put a code-saver into the ciggy lighter socket). The SM is held by 2 bolts, one from each direction. Disconnect the 2 wires from the SM - there's the big fat one from the battery, and the thinner wire which comes from the "ignition/start" switch. Undo the SM bolts and then the SM can be manoeuvered upwards and lifted out. Fitting is the reverse procedure: but take care not to over-tighten the nuts on the SM wires as the threads are made of copper and very easily damaged!

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VerSk Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List New Member Joined: 10 September 2013 Location: North Cheam, Sy Status: Offline Points: 20	Post Options Post Reply Quote VerSk Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: Replacing Almera Starter Motor Posted: 03 September 2014 at 13:15
	At first I thought it was the starter motor solenoid which had gone. There was voltage on the low current feed to the solenoid but the solenoid wasn't "clicking". However, I discovered that the "common" for the solenoid and motor goes through the brushes/commutator, so if the motor brushes are not making contact with the commutator, this will also lead to the solenoid not operating. On removing and bench testing the solenoid, this was found to be working. The starter motor was removed, and on removing the end-plate the brushes were found to be worn down. You can't just buy brushes so I ended up replacing the SM with an exchange unit. So now a few tips on how to remove the SM. The SM is mounted behind the engine block on the clutch/gearbox/flywheel side. To get access you have to remove the plastic air ducting - a big jubilee clip to undo, a plug to take out, and an air breather to slide off - and take off a cast-metal support which is bolted on between the engine side of the air manifold and the manifold itself - 4 x 12mm bolts. Once this bracket is out you can see the SM clearly. There is a steel support which comes across, which has to be undone at the top (13mm bolt I believe) and moved over: to be able to move that you also need to have slackened off the bolt at the other, bottom end of this bracket: I had to do this from underneath, so had to raise the car to do that. At this point make sure that you have the negative battery terminal disconnected (and make sure you know your radio code, or put a code-saver into the ciggy lighter socket). The SM is held by 2 bolts, one from each direction. Disconnect the 2 wires from the SM - there's the big fat one from the battery, and the thinner wire which comes from the "ignition/start" switch. Undo the SM bolts and then the SM can be manoeuvered upwards and lifted out. Fitting is the reverse procedure: but take care not to over-tighten the nuts on the SM wires as the threads are made of copper and very easily damaged!