Question?
What should I look out for when buying a Nissan Micra?
Answer(s):
check the sills (the bottom of the sides of the car) for rust especially if
it has a sunroof.
also check the cross member (at the front under the bumper) for rust.
check that the engine runs smoothly (take it for a test drive)
check the brake pipes for rust.
basically any rust on the car, its the major killer of micras.
all other faults should be easy to repair, common faults like:
CV gators (rubber bits behind the front wheels on the drive shafts) these split
and need replacing but take about an hour with the right tools
fan speed only working on 4, the
resistor card needs replacing, located in the passenger foot well attached
to the bottom of the heater motor, and held in with two positive screws, simply
undo, pull out and unplug and do the reverse with the new card. It
is the resistor pack, and you'll find it under the dash by the passenger
footwell. The resistor cards can be fixed quite easily.
There is a solder 'blob' on the resistor card that acts as a fuse.
I presume due to damp, it corrodes and loses connection.
Scratch either side of the blob to expose clean copper.
Solder both sides then keep adding solder until the 2 sides are joined. On our
resistor card some of the trackwork had burned away as well, so I have repaired
it by soldering in a 5Amp fuse wire taken from a normal glass fuse I broke
open.
engine making rattling noise, this is a common thing with micras, its the
timing chain rattling and most micras make it and still run for many more miles
so no need to worry.
banging from the rear of the car when going over bumps. this is the rear drop links, a couple of bolts and
they are replaced. order the new part first and you will know what to look for.
won't start. there are many reasons for this, some are a NATS issue, (nissan
anti theft system) but the first thing to try is removing the fuel pump fuse
and trying it.
rattle from under the gear stick, this is the heat shield for the second cat,
if you get under the car there is a silver plate below the gear stick, a 10mm
socket will get this off, and you can run the car without it.
water in the passenger foot well. this is a blockage from just under the scuttle pannel. take off the wind
screen wipers and remove the plastic surround and clear out anything inside.
boot not opening when pulling the release cable. alot of micras have snapped
release cables, this is a pain to replace just because of the amount of time it
takes, but other than that its pretty straight forward.
gear change is a bit difficult. try
changing the gear box oil, it can make the world of difference.
headlight is not working, usually passenger. this is where the terminals on the
connector get dirty and the electricity starts to arc, this causes the plug to
melt. replace the plug but ALSO replace the bulb or it will happen again.
Throttle body,
poor idle/fuel consumption. The mass airflow sensor is
mounted inside the throttle body housing. It is soldered in with 3 terminals. These
terminals suffer from dry joints as the connection breaks down. If you catch it
early enough you can pop the silver square cover off the side of the throttle
body and resolder them but if it has been left too long the sensor will have
burned out requiring a new throttle body. If you are unlucky it will have
caused the O2 sensor to burn out too. Great! Later (1998 on cars I think) do
not have the small cover on the throttle body so they cannot be fixed in this
way.
Overfuelling/Emissions problems. Might need a diagnostic computer
for this one. Some cars have a wiring fault where the temperature sensor reads
incorrectly. The sensor thinks its -37 centigrade and sends too much fuel in.
Just like running with the choke out (Ask your Dad!). Nissan used to sell a
modified wiring harness for about £30. The only change was a 1.5K resistor in
the wire going to the ECU.
Non starting. Distributors
on earlier cars break up inside causing no sparks. Although Distributor caps
wear out too giving similar symptoms. Replacement is the only option with the
distributor. But before you rush out and change it, have a look inside the
small engine bay fuse box just next to the distributor. The first fuse (a
15-amp blade fuse) is for the injectors. Make sure it has not corroded away or
blown. If you have had the above headlight problem take the fuse out and check
the fuse box hasn't melted around the terminals.
If you do have to replace the distributor to set the timing properly, warm the
engine up, turn it off, disconnect the throttle position sensor (drivers side
of the throttle body 5 terminals) then set it. Remember to reconnect it when
you are done!
If the engine turns over and here is no fuel, turn the ignition off, lift the
bottom part of the rear seat up and listen for the fuel pump motoring when you
turn the ignition on. It will run for about 5 seconds after you turn the
ignition on. If it doesn't then check all the fuses (in the fuse box on the
dash and in the engine bay) if they are ok reach under and give the centre of
the fuel tank a good hard punch or kick. Sometimes the motor jams and this
amazingly works!
If the fuel pump works try changing he fuel filter as it is often overlooked
during servicing. Its pretty easy to get to. (on the bulkhead, passenger side
of the engine bay!)
Dash light/tail light fuse keeps blowing. Check to see if the
original radio is fitted. If not, remove the radio and you will probably find
the radio has been earthed through a red wire with a blue trace. This is
actually the live to illuminate the factory stereo unit. when you switch the
lights on it will blow the fuse (think its the 3rd from the bottom on the left
row in the interior fuse box. If the cigar lighter /radio feed fuse keeps
blowing, more often than not its because there is a 5p in the cigar lighter
socket!
Dodgy bodywork! Other than the cross member pay attention to the
sills. If they have been repaired make sure it’s a good repair as the sill
curves under the edge also look inside the rear arch as the sill is double
skinned at the back and I’ve seen a few where people haven’t bothered to weld a
closing patch on the end.
Door hinges also start to wear and drop with age. Pins are not available
separately, not big problems to change although the top bolts are a pain to
remove/refit. Be careful not to strip the threads, as it has easily to put the
bolt in slightly off centre whilst trying to hold a car door! Unpainted
replacements look cr*p if you are replacing them to sell the car.
Tailgate hinges develop a hilarious fault where they appear to be working when
you open the boot but after 30 seconds they loose interest and close. Leave the
boot open for a minute or so to make sure they are ok.
Bonnet hinges seize. Good soaking with engine oil is usually enough although in
serious cases it is easy to buckle the bonnet lifting or lowering them.
Washers. If the jet stops working try removing the pipe and shoving
a match into it. There is a small ball bearing that sticks. The match is
usually enough to release it. Do not try blowing them out with an airline as
this just jams the ball bearing. Because this happens washer pumps burn out. If
you are checking them remember they have a switched earth meaning the positive
is always live and the pump works when you earth it.
Knocking noises. If the cross member has had it you will get
clunking through the gear stick and from the front as you would expect. If the
radiator is moving about it knocks too.
Knocking from the rear is usually caused by rear anti roll bar links (check for
wear on a 4 post ramp or the ground) or anti roll bar ‘D’ bushes.
Poor gear change. Usually caused by poorly adjusted clutch cable.
Failing that check the gearbox oil level. You check it/top it up by removing
the complete speedo drive (accessible underneath, top edge of the back of the
gearbox) there is a line around the top of the speedo drive gear. That is the
maximum mark. They like decent gear oil. Do not be tempted to use ATF or engine
oil as the gear change when cold will be affected. These gearboxes do not
like low oil level and will reward poor maintenance by smashing up their
synchros.
Gearchange bushes seize and wear too causing sloppy or crunchy gear change.
Cost pennies though.
Tight gearchanges are usually caused by the above rusting together. Treat as before
being careful not to snap the bolt!
Finally, if the gear stick slops about in neutral rather than falling to the
right it means the small spring underneath has snapped. Remove the heat shield
underneath, bend one of the coils round on the spring, and refit it. 10 minute
job… unless the heat shield bolts break!
If you are considering an automatic, roadtest it making sure it shifts up to
third gear ok. Third gear is a weakspot on these boxes. Also listen for faint
rumbling noises. When the differential bearings start to go on the automatics
they go pretty fast! Finally check the oil colour on the dipstick. It should be
red. Brown indicates a neglected car, pink indicates a water leak.
Wiper problems. Wiper pivots are usually noisy. To fix them remove,
strip and grease them. The pivots separate if neglected for long enough. You
know this has happened when the wipers do not park correctly or intermittent
speed does not work. It can also burn out the wiper motor. Replacement is the
only option here. Rear wiper motors usually fail if the rear washer jet is
blocked because the pipe fills the motor with water when it cannot spray it
out!
Oil leaks. Not particularly prone to them but timing chain covers
sometimes leak on 1 litre engines. Simple case of taking cover off, cleaning
off sealer and refitting.
Drive shaft oil seals do not like to be disturbed, so if the car has had a
recent clutch make sure they are not leaking.
Heater only working on one setting. Caused by the heater resistor
burning out. It is under the glove box. Held in by 2 screws and has a long 5
terminal plug. Currently about £30 from the dealer (so keep your eyes peeled at
the breakers yard!)
Anything else? Brake pipes, centre exhausts, dash light bulbs but
no more than any other car!
I hope this guide has not put you off! I worked at a Main Nissan dealer when
these cars were launched so have seen them at their worst then again my Wife
drives one and the only time the bonnet ever needs lifted is to top up the
washers!